Basically, my passenger side mirror and keyless entry / CAS aren’t working.
It’s a bit of a long story. It’s a 2010 E60 LCI 535iwith about 135K miles, All but about 20K miles are mine.
Back in the fall of 2018, I sold the car to a co-worker. Everything was fine. I bough the car back about 4 months later. When I got the car back, the passenger side mirror electrical didn’t work. No mirror adjust or fold in. I didn’t think a lot of it. The guy I’d sold it to had done a couple of minor mods, one of which was changing the courtesy lights in the bottom of the doors. I’m not sure if he removed the door card to do that.
A few months later, I started having trouble with my keyless entry. I’d press the FOB and nothing would happen. Usually, I could press it repeatedly and the doors would eventually unlock. I presumed it was a dead battery, so I replaced the battery in the FOB (my FOB has the replaceable battery). When I’d change the battery, it would still work only intermittently. I changed out the battery several times.
After a several weeks of it intermittently working, the remote FOB seemed totally dead. No door unlock or trunk opening from the FOB. The door handles would no longer open the car with the FOB in my pocket. The ignition would not work unless the key was inserted into the steering column (vs in my pocket, etc). I have to eject the metal key from the FOB to lock/unlock the doors.
After watching one of Nathan's earlier videos and info from other forums, I removed my Diversity Antenna and cleaned the contacts; no help. I purchased a used Diversity Antenna from eBay and tried it; nothing. The eBay antenna was the same OEM P/N and frequency. I DID NOT do any programming when I replaced the antenna, though. The video briefly mentioned programming the Diversity Antenna video, but I it didn't show anything and don’t currently have ISTA or other way to program. I have since put my original antenna back into the car. Have also checked all fuses.
I have checked connections of all trunk modules and tested my battery. I reset all my codes about a week ago. The codes I get today from Carly and BlueDriver currently are:
DSC - 006E83 – PT-CAN: Signal ST IND FLTR message in STAT RDC invalid (transmitter RDC)… I believe this has something to do with TPMS, but mine appears to be working OK.
GATEWAY – 0093CA– No LIN communication to the mirror passenger side. Sounds like the problem with my mirror, but no idea what it really means.
ENGINE – 002E8D- Intelligent battery sensor, signal transmission
ENGINE – 0029F5– Catalyst conversion 2
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER – 00A559 – Terminal 30g f cutoff / Terminal 30g f shutdown / KL.30g f shutdown. This is why I tested my battery. It seems OK, but I have gotten the battery drain icon recently while working on the car (after only a short time with the switch on, but car off).
TELEPHONE - 00A559– Ring break diagnosis was performed (error ring diagnosis) / MOST: ring break / Ring break diagnosis was performed (error ring diagnosis). / TCU: ring break diagnosis was performed (error ring diagnosis).
Before I did the code reset, there were a slew of other codes, some of which sound like they could be relevant. I can list those if helpful.
I'm at my wits' end.
Brian
Plano, TX
why it is important to not be hasty or casual about what iron skillet you use. If you want to be able to make restaurant quality steaks at home, you need to own the best cast iron skillet for steaks. Making a steak in a cast iron skillet is essential for mouth-watering results.